Got a 40 horse motor you wanna break down? Here is the methods I used.I'm not going to say they are the right way but they worked for me.Alot of this information will also work for different Volkswagen engines as well.
What you will need:
1.plenty of ambient light. A flash light is a good idea too.
2.a large can of PB Blaster ( available at any hardware or automotive store)
3.shop rags
4.rubber mallet.( I used a small ballpeen hammer because my mallet looks like Thors hammer.)
5.13mm end wrench
6.10mm end wrench
7.13mm socket (get a shallow,and a deep socket. 1/4 drive and 3/8)
8.10mm socket(shallow,and deep. 1/4 drive and 3/8)
9.15mm 3/8 drive deep socket
10.1/4 extensions (I used a 2'' extension)
11.3/8 extenions(Again I used a 2'')
12. 1/4 and 3/8 drive ratchets
13. A good large blade Flat head screwdriver
14.wire brush(for cleanup)
15.old toothbrush(also for cleanup)
16.breaker bar and 30mm socket(this is to help rotate the engine)
17.needlenose pliers
18.ziplock bags( for bagging nuts and bolts)
19.sharpie marker(for marking ziplock bags)
20.some cold beer(most important! If you don't have a fridge in your garage I highly reccomend one)
Now once you have gathered every thing you need lay it all out somewhere within reach of where you are working.You can lay all the tools in a pile on the floor but it WILL cause frustration when you can't find what you are looking for.
Onto the Breakdown
1.Drain all oil out of the engine ( I forgot to do this and it made a very large mess in my driveway)
2.Remove the clutch bolts.There are 6 -13mm bolts.After removing these bolts put them in a ziplock bag and label "clutch to flywheel" or whatever you want to label them so you remember what they are.Lay the bag somewhere that it won't be disturbed.I pulled the clutch and layed it on my work table just how it came off so I would know later how to put it back on.Don't forget to inspect it to see if it needs replaced
3.Spray the exhaust bolts with the Pb blaster.now remove your exhaust nuts.If they don't want to come off give them a little more PB and tap the wrench or ratchet handle with your mallet.There are 4-13mm on each head(front and back) and 2-10mm on the heat riser . Bag and label these and lay the bag on top of the first so you can read the label.Get out your mallet and give it a little whack to pop the exhaust apart.after that it should slide off.It is in two pieces heater boxes(or j-tubes) and muffler(or header) the pic is a stock heater box /muffler setup.Again inspect to see if you need to replace
4.Remove the two 13mm nuts that hold on the carb.I'm not sure if you really NEED to do this but I did anyway. Bag em' and tag em' lay the bag on top of the last bag so you can read the label.I know this seems anal but you'll thank me later.Put the carb somplace safe.Inspect it to see if it needs a rebuild( might as well re-build it if unknown condition)
5.Remove the two nuts that hold the fuel pump on and remove the fuel pump.There is a plastic piece about 1/2" thick between the pump and the block,and a rod that goes down inside the engine.take the rod out first then take off the little plastic piece.Bag and tag these and put them with the other bags.
6.Loosen the 10mm nut that holds the distributer down and pull it out.Lay it in the safe place the other parts are in.inspect the little o-ring gasket on the shaft to see if it needs replaced.Then remove the 13mm nut that holds the clamp to yhe block.Bag and tag them and put them with the other bags.
7.remove the 13mm generator strap bolt.Bag and Tag and put with other bags
8.remove the 4-10mm generator backing plate bolts.Bag and tag and put with other bags
9.Spray the screws at the bottom of the fanshroud with the PB blaster and take a few swigs off your beer while it soaks in.Remove the screws.Bag and tag them and lay with other bags.Grab ahold of the Generator and the fan shroud pull straght up and when the backing plate clears the intake pull out the generator out with the fan attached.Put them in the safe place where the other parts are.
10.remove the 4-10mm intake bolts that are on top of both heads.Bag,tag,and put with other bags.Pull off the intake and put with other parts.
11.Remove the 4-13mm bolts that hold the generator stand to the block.Bag,tag,and put with other bags.Pull off the generator stand and put with other parts.
Allright! Looking a little different now isn't it?Go get your wife and kids and show them what a good job you are doing.At this point your engine should look like this.
Now there are flat head screws holding your engine tins on(the black or chrome metal things that are arond the heads and cylinders) Spray these with PB Blaster and let it soak in.Try to loosen them and re-apply some more PB if needed.
12.remove the screws.Bag and tag and put with other bags.Pull off the tins and put with other parts.Now you are down to the longblock! Congratulations! A "longblock" Vw engine is the block with all of its' internals,cylinders,pistons,heads,and valve covers still in place.
13.Take your flathead and pop the valve cover holder.Pull off the valve cover and put with the other parts.
14.Take the 2-13mm rocker nuts off.These should be a little stiff so give your wrench/ratchet handle a little whack to help loosen them.Try to avoid using your hand as a hammer.You'll feel it in the morning if you do. Bag and tag the nuts and put with the other bags.put the rocker on the table and pull out the push rods.I layed the pushrods where they came out so I could put them back where they came out.Roll the pushrods on a flat surface and check for a wobble.They should be straight!Clean them off and blow them out.
This is how I layed these parts out on my work area.You can do it however is organized to you.It will help when it comes time to reassemble.
This is about what your parts bag area should look like.I know it is methodical and probably border line obsessive compulsive but you will be glad you did this later!
15.Spray the 4-15mm upper head bolts(outside of head) with PB Blaster.Let it soak in,and try the bolts.These WILL be on there pretty good .They get hot too which doesn't help.Just take your time use the PB and give the ratchet a whack with the mallet and I promise they will come out.If a few of the long studs that they are attached to unscrew out of the block it's ok,so don't worry about it.After you get them out bag and tag and put with other bags.
16.Remove the 4-15mm lower head bolts(inside the head) These will also be on there pretty good.Just use the mallet.They should come out a LITTLE easier than the uppers because they are in the head with a bunch of oil.Bag and tag the nuts and lay with other bags.Now grab both sides of the head and give them a little wiggle and it should slide right off the studs.set the head with the other parts .
17.grab ahold of the cylinders and give them a little shake too,and the shouls slide off the pistons.There is a little metal plate between the cylinders(atleast there should be) Save it and put it with the other large parts.Put the cylinders with the other parts and get ready for piston removal.This is a good time to grab a beer!
This is what your parts area should look like at this point.Like I said before just keep it as organized as possible.
18.get out your needle nose pliers and pop out the wrist pin retainers clips inside the hole in the side of the pistons they look like this
There are 2 per piston pull them out and set them with the other parts.
Grab your flat head and mallet and knock the wrist pin out of the piston.
You will need to get out the breaker bar and 30mm socket so you can turn the motor over to get all the pistons off the connecting rods.
Your parts Area should look like this now. Congratulations you now have a short block!
Your engine should now look like this. Get your wire brush and some degreaser and give her a good scrub!
After that get a good list together of parts that you intend to replace and call Davis Racing at 765-763-7709 and place your order.
Now comes the hardest part of the whole job......Waiting for parts!
Stay tuned for re-assembly soon (as soon as my parts get in)
What you will need:
1.plenty of ambient light. A flash light is a good idea too.
2.a large can of PB Blaster ( available at any hardware or automotive store)
3.shop rags
4.rubber mallet.( I used a small ballpeen hammer because my mallet looks like Thors hammer.)
5.13mm end wrench
6.10mm end wrench
7.13mm socket (get a shallow,and a deep socket. 1/4 drive and 3/8)
8.10mm socket(shallow,and deep. 1/4 drive and 3/8)
9.15mm 3/8 drive deep socket
10.1/4 extensions (I used a 2'' extension)
11.3/8 extenions(Again I used a 2'')
12. 1/4 and 3/8 drive ratchets
13. A good large blade Flat head screwdriver
14.wire brush(for cleanup)
15.old toothbrush(also for cleanup)
16.breaker bar and 30mm socket(this is to help rotate the engine)
17.needlenose pliers
18.ziplock bags( for bagging nuts and bolts)
19.sharpie marker(for marking ziplock bags)
20.some cold beer(most important! If you don't have a fridge in your garage I highly reccomend one)
Now once you have gathered every thing you need lay it all out somewhere within reach of where you are working.You can lay all the tools in a pile on the floor but it WILL cause frustration when you can't find what you are looking for.
Onto the Breakdown
1.Drain all oil out of the engine ( I forgot to do this and it made a very large mess in my driveway)
2.Remove the clutch bolts.There are 6 -13mm bolts.After removing these bolts put them in a ziplock bag and label "clutch to flywheel" or whatever you want to label them so you remember what they are.Lay the bag somewhere that it won't be disturbed.I pulled the clutch and layed it on my work table just how it came off so I would know later how to put it back on.Don't forget to inspect it to see if it needs replaced
3.Spray the exhaust bolts with the Pb blaster.now remove your exhaust nuts.If they don't want to come off give them a little more PB and tap the wrench or ratchet handle with your mallet.There are 4-13mm on each head(front and back) and 2-10mm on the heat riser . Bag and label these and lay the bag on top of the first so you can read the label.Get out your mallet and give it a little whack to pop the exhaust apart.after that it should slide off.It is in two pieces heater boxes(or j-tubes) and muffler(or header) the pic is a stock heater box /muffler setup.Again inspect to see if you need to replace
4.Remove the two 13mm nuts that hold on the carb.I'm not sure if you really NEED to do this but I did anyway. Bag em' and tag em' lay the bag on top of the last bag so you can read the label.I know this seems anal but you'll thank me later.Put the carb somplace safe.Inspect it to see if it needs a rebuild( might as well re-build it if unknown condition)
5.Remove the two nuts that hold the fuel pump on and remove the fuel pump.There is a plastic piece about 1/2" thick between the pump and the block,and a rod that goes down inside the engine.take the rod out first then take off the little plastic piece.Bag and tag these and put them with the other bags.
6.Loosen the 10mm nut that holds the distributer down and pull it out.Lay it in the safe place the other parts are in.inspect the little o-ring gasket on the shaft to see if it needs replaced.Then remove the 13mm nut that holds the clamp to yhe block.Bag and tag them and put them with the other bags.
7.remove the 13mm generator strap bolt.Bag and Tag and put with other bags
8.remove the 4-10mm generator backing plate bolts.Bag and tag and put with other bags
9.Spray the screws at the bottom of the fanshroud with the PB blaster and take a few swigs off your beer while it soaks in.Remove the screws.Bag and tag them and lay with other bags.Grab ahold of the Generator and the fan shroud pull straght up and when the backing plate clears the intake pull out the generator out with the fan attached.Put them in the safe place where the other parts are.
10.remove the 4-10mm intake bolts that are on top of both heads.Bag,tag,and put with other bags.Pull off the intake and put with other parts.
11.Remove the 4-13mm bolts that hold the generator stand to the block.Bag,tag,and put with other bags.Pull off the generator stand and put with other parts.
Allright! Looking a little different now isn't it?Go get your wife and kids and show them what a good job you are doing.At this point your engine should look like this.
Now there are flat head screws holding your engine tins on(the black or chrome metal things that are arond the heads and cylinders) Spray these with PB Blaster and let it soak in.Try to loosen them and re-apply some more PB if needed.
12.remove the screws.Bag and tag and put with other bags.Pull off the tins and put with other parts.Now you are down to the longblock! Congratulations! A "longblock" Vw engine is the block with all of its' internals,cylinders,pistons,heads,and valve covers still in place.
13.Take your flathead and pop the valve cover holder.Pull off the valve cover and put with the other parts.
14.Take the 2-13mm rocker nuts off.These should be a little stiff so give your wrench/ratchet handle a little whack to help loosen them.Try to avoid using your hand as a hammer.You'll feel it in the morning if you do. Bag and tag the nuts and put with the other bags.put the rocker on the table and pull out the push rods.I layed the pushrods where they came out so I could put them back where they came out.Roll the pushrods on a flat surface and check for a wobble.They should be straight!Clean them off and blow them out.
This is how I layed these parts out on my work area.You can do it however is organized to you.It will help when it comes time to reassemble.
This is about what your parts bag area should look like.I know it is methodical and probably border line obsessive compulsive but you will be glad you did this later!
15.Spray the 4-15mm upper head bolts(outside of head) with PB Blaster.Let it soak in,and try the bolts.These WILL be on there pretty good .They get hot too which doesn't help.Just take your time use the PB and give the ratchet a whack with the mallet and I promise they will come out.If a few of the long studs that they are attached to unscrew out of the block it's ok,so don't worry about it.After you get them out bag and tag and put with other bags.
16.Remove the 4-15mm lower head bolts(inside the head) These will also be on there pretty good.Just use the mallet.They should come out a LITTLE easier than the uppers because they are in the head with a bunch of oil.Bag and tag the nuts and lay with other bags.Now grab both sides of the head and give them a little wiggle and it should slide right off the studs.set the head with the other parts .
17.grab ahold of the cylinders and give them a little shake too,and the shouls slide off the pistons.There is a little metal plate between the cylinders(atleast there should be) Save it and put it with the other large parts.Put the cylinders with the other parts and get ready for piston removal.This is a good time to grab a beer!
This is what your parts area should look like at this point.Like I said before just keep it as organized as possible.
18.get out your needle nose pliers and pop out the wrist pin retainers clips inside the hole in the side of the pistons they look like this
There are 2 per piston pull them out and set them with the other parts.
Grab your flat head and mallet and knock the wrist pin out of the piston.
You will need to get out the breaker bar and 30mm socket so you can turn the motor over to get all the pistons off the connecting rods.
Your parts Area should look like this now. Congratulations you now have a short block!
Your engine should now look like this. Get your wire brush and some degreaser and give her a good scrub!
After that get a good list together of parts that you intend to replace and call Davis Racing at 765-763-7709 and place your order.
Now comes the hardest part of the whole job......Waiting for parts!
Stay tuned for re-assembly soon (as soon as my parts get in)
